Sabaragamuwa · The West Coast

6-Day Sri Lanka Gem Trail — Ratnapura & the Sapphire Country

Ratnapura / Bentota

The shape

Ceylon has meant sapphires for two thousand years. This goes to where they come out of the ground. Three nights at Ratnapura — the City of Gems — because the trade cannot be understood in a day, then a night on the coast before the flight.

A working mine shaft, timber-lined and hand-bailed, and the shallow baskets where the gravel is washed for stones. The heat-treaters at their charcoal fires, coaxing colour out of a rough stone over six hours with nothing but coconut husk, lime and breath. The Ratnapura market at trading hour. A cutting house, where a rough crystal becomes a faceted stone. And, if you wish, the chance to buy at source with someone at your side who has no stake in the sale.

This is a journey for the genuinely interested — a collector, a jeweller, or a traveller who would rather understand one thing deeply than see ten things quickly. Our guide in the gem country is a working dealer, not a commission agent.

The point of the journey, for many, is to leave with something. You can buy a stone at source — a Ceylon sapphire, cut or rough — with a dealer beside you who takes nothing from the sale, and have it set into a ring or a pendant by a goldsmith before you fly. Every stone is certified, and the export papers are arranged for you.

The Peacock Standard

Always included

  • Private vehicle and chauffeur guide throughout
  • Every property booked and confirmed
  • Breakfast daily, dinner most nights
  • Park and site entrances arranged in advance
  • Airport meet-and-greet on arrival and departure
  • Cold towels and chilled king coconut in the vehicle
  • A number answered at any hour

The gem country

Where a sapphire comes from

A shaft sunk by hand and shored with timber, the water bailed out in baskets.

The mine head

A shaft sunk by hand and shored with timber, the water bailed out in baskets.

The shallow baskets at the stream, where the gem-bearing gravel gives up its stones.

Washing the gravel

The shallow baskets at the stream, where the gem-bearing gravel gives up its stones.

Six hours at the crucible, coaxing colour out of a rough stone with husk, lime and breath.

The charcoal fire

Six hours at the crucible, coaxing colour out of a rough stone with husk, lime and breath.

A dull crystal ground and polished until it is a faceted sapphire.

The cutting wheel

A dull crystal ground and polished until it is a faceted sapphire.

A stone chosen at source, and set by a goldsmith into something made for it before you leave.

A piece of your own

A stone chosen at source, and set by a goldsmith into something made for it before you leave.

A rough stone held to the light, read for colour, clarity and the flaws that decide its worth.

Under the loupe

A rough stone held to the light, read for colour, clarity and the flaws that decide its worth.

The day's stones spread on white paper and graded by eye, the way the trade has always done it.

Sorting the parcel

The day's stones spread on white paper and graded by eye, the way the trade has always done it.

The stone held to the turning wheel, one facet at a time, checked and returned to the lap.

At the lap

The stone held to the turning wheel, one facet at a time, checked and returned to the lap.

Down into the pit by hand, the earth lifted out basket by basket until the gem gravel shows.

Digging the pit

Down into the pit by hand, the earth lifted out basket by basket until the gem gravel shows.

What each day holds

Day by day

Days 1–3 · Ratnapura · three nights

South, into the hills of Sabaragamuwa

Met at the airport and driven inland to Ratnapura, where the road leaves the coast and climbs into wet green hills. The town’s name is Sinhala for ‘City of Gems’, and it has been the heart of the trade since before Rome. The evening is yours.

2.5 hrs

Days 4–5 · Bentota · two nights

Down the shaft

A day at a working mine. A shaft sunk by hand and shored with timber, the water bailed out in baskets, the gem-bearing gravel brought up and washed in the shallows of a stream — the same method used for centuries. Later, the miners at the Kalu Ganga, panning the flood gravels the river has carried down from the hills. This is the source, before anything is cut, graded or sold.

Day 6 · Departure

North up the coast, then the expressway to the airport.

2 hrs